|Destination:||Nepal||Fitness level:||Moderate to Challenging|
|Arrival on:||Tribhuvan International Airport (TIA)||Departure from:||Tribhuvan International Airport (TIA)|
|Meals:||Breakfast in Kathmandu and All standard meals (B+L+D) during the Trek and climb|
|Best Season:||Spring and Autumn|
|Accommodation:||Best lodge/Tea house/Camping|
Makalu Expedition – “While standing on top of Everest, I looked across the valley, towards the other great peak, Makalu and mentally worked out a route about how it could be climbed… it showed me that, even though I was standing on top of the world, it wasn’t the end of everything for me, by any means. I was still looking beyond to other interesting challenges.” Edmund Hillary
At 8,463 meters, Makalu is World’s 5th highest mountain, a dream of every mountaineer. Neighboring friend of Everest and Kanchenjunga; Makalu has a distinctive pyramid shape, with its South east and North western ridges being most prominent. Attempting to Makalu is both a challenging and serious undertaking and its remoteness and hardships; make it a step above many other 8,000 meter peaks. Attempting the peak from North ridge, from a base camp at the foot of the Chago Glacier, we will use 5 camps on the mountain, including Camp 3 on the Makalu La at 7,400 m and a high camp on the North Face at approximately 7,600 m.
By the time you get to the base camp, a route will already be established with ropes and ladders through the ice falls to Camp 1, and our Sherpa’s will be carrying loads of equipment up the mountain.
However, before setting you up for a Makalu expedition, it’s important for us to gain a full understanding of your body’s response to altitude and help you gain experience with Himalayan conditions. That’s why we highly recommend you to join our preparatory programs of mountaineering, which is conducted in other mountains a bit easier to attempt.
Mount Makalu has many climbing routes leading to the summit via west ridge, west face, south face, southwest face and northwest buttress. The normal commercial climbing route is past the Southeast Peak and along the Southeast ridge. The climb is straightforward but moderately technical with exposure on the SE Ridge; it requires some fixed rope set-up.
Traditionally there are 3 camps, high camp C1 (6,500m), C2 (7,300m) at the bottom of the Southeast Peak ridge and C3 (7,900 m) at the beginning of the SE ridge. With very low Base Camp the ABC is set-up at 5500m. The terrain encountered on the ascents varies from glacier crossings to steep snow fields and requires a good understanding of basic alpine climbing techniques. Makalu has been climbed Alpine style but traditionally all commercial operators practice expedition style to improve the chances of summit success for the clients.
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