| Group size:
||Nepal || Fitness level:
||Moderate to Adventurous
| Arrival on:
||Tribhuwan International Airport (TIA)
|| Departure from:
||Tribhuwan International Airport (TIA) |
||Breakfast in Kathmandu and All standard meals (B+L+D) during the Trek and Climb.
| Best Season:
||Spring and Autumn
|| Hotel accommodation + Camping
Cho Oyu Expedition from Tibet first attempted by the Austrian team of mountaineers via Tibet route in 1954, has only been gaining popularity since recently. Cho Oyu (8201 meters), the sixth highest mountain in the world is one of the easiest to climb among the other 8,000-meter-high mountains. The south face of Cho Oyu, facing Nepal is steep and challenging, hence it’s rarely attempted. While, the north side of the mountain from Tibet side is relatively moderate, and has a safe route to the mountain as well. As a result, most of the Cho Oyu expedition is made via Tibet side due to the easier access and technique as discussed earlier.
Cho Oyu expedition allows you to sharpen your skills to climb and stay healthy at extreme altitude by learning about techniques to climb with an oxygen system. While you decide to choose us as your companion for any expedition in the Himalayas, we will make sure to keep your health and security as our foremost priority. We also do other great Himalayan treks, that don’t even require technical climbing skills. To learn more about them, please make sure to follow through the ‘trekking’ section of website.
How hard is to summit Cho Oyu expedition?
Some climbers claim that Cho Oyu is the easiest 8000-meter peak (if anything over 8000 meters can be called easy!). There’s no really technical sections and the objective dangers are close to non-existent. Its relatively easy access makes it an attractive climb for someone with limited time, as it can be attemptedin roughly 6 weeks round trip. Base Camp is accessible by jeep and it is possible to reach Kathmandu in a very long day from Base Camp.
Climbing Cho Oyu will be Challenging, rewarding and humbling. Climbing one of the world’s highest mountains brings its rewards and if you are lucky enough to stand on summit you will be granted the most impressive view of Mt. Everest and surrounding Himalaya’s. Cho Oyu stands at 8,201m/ 26,906 ft. and offering you the chance to stand on one of the highest points on the planet.
Climbing Cho Oyu 8201m/ 26,906 ft. is not easy and climbing into the death zone brings its own challenges. With the right preparation, training and experience. Cho Oyu is achievable. We set up three camps on the mountain giving us the right acclimatization along with getting our bodies used to the low levels of oxygen. We will have world class climbing Sherpa’s carrying food, tents, oxygen and all equipment needed for the climb.
From Base Camp at 4,900m/ 16,075 ft. we will move to an advanced base camp at 5,800m/ 19,030 ft. From there we divide up all our equipment to be moved onto the mountain. We will establish three further camps with the highest camp at 7,450m/ 24,442 ft. before making our summit push up to 8,201m/ 26,906 ft. and back to Camp 2 at 7,150m/ 23,458 ft.
You need to have experience climbing at altitudes with a minimum of 6,000m/ 20,000 ft. climbing experience, preferably with us. You need to be proficient at using fixed lines, abseiling, climbing using a Jumar, and have spent a lot of time camping, preparing food, and understand survival and climbing techniques. Coming as self-sufficient as possible will greatly aid your experience and success on the mountain. You will need to come fully experienced for this climb
Approaches to Mount Cho Oyu
- From the north, the peak approached from the Tingri Plain, to the Palung Glacier that lies below the peak’s north face, and the Gyabrag Glacier that surrounds the Northwest face.
- Typically, it takes 3 days to drive to Tingri (4300m) from Kathmandu with acclimatization stops in Kerung (2850m). From Tingri expedition takes a day rest at Chinese Base Camp (5100m), Middle Camp (5400m) before arriving at Cho Oyu North Advanced Base Camp (5700m). It takes 9 days to reach ABC from Kathmandu.
Cho Oyu has three main ridges: the Northwest, the Northeast, and the Southwest and impressive Southwest face rising 3000m from the ABC.
- South side of Cho Oyu is a great climbing playground for high altitude climbers because of the cool face relatively easily accessible for skilled climbers.
- In 1994, Yasushi Yamanoi has completed First solo ascent via the South West face. On October 2, 2006, Slovenian Pavle Kozjek speed-climbed a new route on the Southwest Face in a single solo ascent from advanced base camp.
- The crux was a vertical icefall, which was bypassed with 5.6 rock climbing. He reached the summit in 14 hours.
- The Northwest Ridge is also known as Tichy Route. Tichy Route is a normal route for commercial operators and for first time climbers of 8000m peaks. It doesn’t require technical climbing skills, as it is a less than 50deg snowfield with one very short section of yellow band rock with fixed lines. The route begins from the Gyabrag Glacier at the base of Peak 6395m and the location of the advanced base camp (ABC) at 5700m (18,700′).
- The route skirts first and then ascends the screed and fern on the west side of the slope leading to Camp 1 at 6400m (21,000′) at the bottom of the Northwest ridge proper of Cho Oyu. Camp 1 location is very nice as it is well sheltered from the weather by the ridge itself and the rocks below the base of the Northwest ridge.
- From Camp 1 the route follows the Northwest ridge, and then opens out onto the Northwest face of the upper mountain. About halfway between Camp 1 and Camp 2 there is a steeper 30-50m section consisting of moderate ice cliff. Most of the route between Camp 1 and 2 is fixed with rope because there are hundreds of unskilled mountaineers with huge entourage of climbing Sherpa provided by commercial operators.
- Camp 2 is located at about 7200m (23,500′). Some expeditions fix an intermediate temporary camp between C1 and C2, just below the ice cliff on the Northwest ridge at about 6600 m (21,600′), especially during the first or second acclimatization trip.
- Most of operators fix a high camp at about 7450 m (24,500′) just below yellow bands to maximize the chance of success on summit day but occasional parties do the summit from C2. Usually the yellow bands are fixed with rope, which requires some strenuous climbing. Above this, more rocky bands there are a steep summit ridge snowfield. Expeditions usually continue up this steep snowfield to the crest of the Northwest Ridge and the false summit. From here climbers cross a broad plateau, with a very small rise to the true summit of 8201m (26, 901 feet). From the true summit there is an incredible view of Mt. Everest and Mt. Makalu.
- Most of the climbing is on ice and snow slopes up to 50 degrees with a few very short sections of steeper rock and ice. The highest technical section is 6m high and safely climbed with fixed ropes. This makes it a perfect for ski and snowboard descent. The first American ski descent of an 8,000-meter peak was on October 1, 2002, when Montana ski mountaineer Kristopher Erickson reached the summit of Cho Oyu and then skied down.
- Speed climbing is another option on Cho Oyu. On October 2, 2006, Slovenian Pavle Kozjek speed-climbed a new route on the Southwest Face in a single solo ascent from advanced base camp. The crux was a vertical icefall, which was bypassed with 5.6 rock climbing. He reached the summit in 14 hours.
- Is Spring Climbing Better Then Autumn? On Cho Oyu, it does not matter. Each season has is slightly different and has different attractions but for Cho Oyu being lower than Everest the reliability odds of good weather are roughly even.
- Spring starts cold and then warms up so acclimatization is tough but the climb can be pleasant with slightly longer days and warmer temperatures. In spring you wait for transition between winter winds and monsoon snowfall. You don’t want to get big a snow dump on Cho Oyu because of high objective avalanche danger on its 50deg slopes past C3. The visibility in spring is usually not as clear as in autumn. Optimum spring summit usually is in around mid-May.
- Autumn climbing is nice and comfortable. It is easy to acclimatize and you basically wait for the weather transition from monsoon to winter, when winds stop before they change direction. There is lots of snow and high objective avalanche danger, so you basically wait for snowfall to stop and snow to consolidate, and hope for no snow dump just before you ready for your climb. The visibility is superb, crisp and crystal clear. Optimum autumn summit is around end of September and early October before winter cold winds set in.
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- Day 01 :Arrival Kathmandu (1350m.) transfer hotel
- Day 02 :Prepare visa & expedition
- Day 03 :Kathmandu
- Day 04 :Drive to Kodari & transfer Zhangmu – hotel
- Day 05 :Drive Nylam 2750m. - Hotel
- Day 06 :Nylam rest for acclimatization – Hotel
- Day 07 :Drive Tingri 4340m. – Hotel
- Day 08 :Rest of day for acclimatized - Hotel
- Day 09 :Drive to Base Camp 5000m. Camping
- Day 10 :Chinese Base Camp – camping
- Day 11 :Prepared load to Yak for ABC-camping
- Day 12 :Base Camp - Middle camp with Yaks
- Day 13 :Middle Camp - A.B.C 5700m. –camping
- Day 14-40; Climbing Period for Cho Oyu 8201m. :
- Day 41 :Advance Base camp - Base camp –camping
- Day 42 :Drive Base Camp - Zhangmu - Hotel
- Day 43 :Drive Zhangmu - Kathmandu – Hotel
- Day 44 :Kathmandu – Hotel
- Day 45 :Final Departure
- All above trekking hours and distances are approximate and it’s absolutely for general ideas only.
- The above data is a guide and standard layout of what we give. Our trek can be customized at your request to suit your particular necessities
- Your safety is of supreme concern while engaging with Snowy Dream World. Please note that your leader has the authority to adjust or cancel any part of the itinerary if it is estimated required due to safety issues. Every determination will be made to keep to the above itinerary; though, since this journey involves travelling in remote mountainous areas, we cannot assurance that we will not suffer from it. Weather conditions, health condition, unexpected natural disasters can all affect in the itinerary. The leader will try to ensure that the trip runs according to plan, but please be prepared for the happening if required.